23-27 October 2018
Over the past 25 years, Regency TAFE has paddled a large number of South Australia’s 150 off shore islands, laying claim to firsts on a number of them.
With 4 expeditions running each year, this week for the Tafie’s it was the Port Lincoln trip. The last few years this trip has proven fickle with sporadic spring weather, never really knowing where the weather will let us paddle until the day before. Even then nothing is certain.
The plan so far was to circumnavigate Thistle Island.
After a pub meal in Pt. Lincoln, we arrived at Taylors Landing still with a few hours of trip prep to be finalised; Installation of towing cleats on the double, and constructing a new tow rope.
Tuesday 23rd
The weather forecast for Tuesday was to be 15-20kts SE, but as the sun rose over the sheltered landing one could be deceived into thinking it was all calm and peachy out there.
All packed and sorted, 7 students ( Cody A, Dan A, Bundy E, Dayna F, James T, Ryan H, Jacko M) and 3 instructors (Malcolm Hamilton, Ben Tomkins and myself) set off on a trip that encompasses some of the nastiest and fickle stretches of water the state has to offer: Thorny Passage.
After a short crossing to Taylor Island and a rest in its protection, the students made their plans to cross the passage proper. We had arrived in the week of the spring tide, and it was now beginning to flood with wind helping it along.
We battled south down the east coast of Taylor Island hoping it would provide slower moving water. Then the group moved out straight into the full brunt of the elements. It appeared as though we were making no ground for an age. But as we drifted across, the flow slowed in the lee of Grindall Island and we entered a spectacular cove. Here we witnessed a domestic issue between sea lions, and a White Bellied Sea Eagle being harassed by gulls and pied oyster catchers!
The last leg involved crossing from Grindall to Thistle Island. It was quite a surreal experience for me, knowing we were in the exact stretch of water where Matthew Flinders had lost his crew.
Flinders vessel “The Investigator” was anchored off the northern coast of Thistle island when Flinders instructed one of his best mates, John Thistle and 7 crew to search for fresh water along the mainland in a cutter. A man was posted on the top mast to watch their journey, checking every 5 minutes. He had spotted them a mere 3 nautical miles from the ship upon return. Looking up again he could not see them, and they were lost forever.
At the time they were experiencing South Easterly winds and a strong ebbing tide. A combination of wind against tide that creates tumultuous seas. Of the 8 crew, only 2 were known to be able to swim.
The landmarks and islands named by Flinders afterwards all bear warning, with the Islands named after each of the lost crew; Thistle, Williams, Hopkins, Smith, Little, Lewis, Grindall and Taylor. Other features include Thorny Passage, Cape Catastrophe and Memory Cove.
Fortunately for us, we had wind with tide. Though the sea state was far from flat, it was not like that which claimed those sailors’ lives.
Making camp near Observatory Point we were rewarded with views back to Lincoln National Park, the Passage and the rising cliffs of Thistle Island. In the distance the unmistakable shape of Wedge Island stood tall and inviting.
Wednesday 24th
Driven by North Easterly winds, the usually mill-pond like NE coast of Thistle was converted into 1m rough seas. Though I would have loved to gaze into the crystal clear water along the coast, the 200m Sandstone cliffs were certainly still spectacular.
Landing on Nautilus Beach for lunch we agreed we needed to increase our pace if we were to make it around to Waterhouse Bay in good time. The group had to implement surf skills to land on the usually flat beach with its strong sweeping current.
After negotiating the high tided beach and a place to sleep, we set up camp with a spectacular view to the east, boasting Wedge Island, North Gambier Island and even Daly Head on the Yorke Peninsular.
Thursday 25th
Thursday was dubbed as our crux day, with our route passing around the southern coast of Thistle. This area had proven precarious in previous trips for Ben and Malcolm, with tide races, exposure to unhindered southern ocean swell and rebound waves. In previous trips the call had been made to turn around and run back to the sheltered side. It was this section that has prevented many circumnavigations in the past.
As we turned the first corner south conditions began to build. Though we were virtually at slack tide, the water was still running at a pace off the headlands. 3m swell began wrapping its way around, becoming refracted by both South Rock and Albatross Island and two different swell trains rolling through the area.
We punched single file through the shallow gap between Albatross and Thistle with its tidal racing water and regrouped once the water flattened out again. By now the wind was building solidly into the 20kt region from the south, creating large seas atop the 3m swell. As instructors we had taken over the group by now in a very autocratic manner.
Knowing the risk of turning 90 degrees and running a following sea straight away, Ben took our course West, and incrementally changed the angle to the north every 5-10 minutes. This had two results:
We drew a large arc around the southern tip, but more importantly gave the paddling crew the opportunity to adapt and get used to handling the conditions of large swell and seas coming from the beam (side), then around to the stern.
For me these were some of the largest multi-directional seas I had ever paddled.
We remained as a tight group so that we could communicate and be certain no one was left behind. Ben positioning himself up wind so his voice could be heard, and myself downwind in the quickest place to perform a rescue should it be needed.
We rounded fossil point into the shelter of the bay. Everyone one had performed exception skills, with no one turning green or threatening to capsize. Everyone had to perform a number of high supports to stay afloat as waves broke over kayaks.
Reaching Fossil bay, we spied a potential landing at the bottom of the cliffs and decided we had done enough for the day. Why re-enter the fray if calmer conditions await the next day?
The beach wasn’t much at all with a sneaky dumping wave waiting for those who miss-timed their landing.
Round smooth lumps of granite made a bank rising steeply into the cliffs. All sorts of ideas were in the air as to how we would make out sleeping arrangements. But someone’s misfortune in the past had delivered hundreds of planks of wood during what must have been an epic storm. These were to become the building materials of the newly opened driftwood hotel. Boasting 2 decked areas capable of sleeping 4-5 people each, with shelter over their heads.
It was truly a magnificent place to spend the night, with views across Thistles’ exposed western coast, imposing 180m carved sandstone cliffs, Hopkins Island and Cape Catastrophe into the sunset.
That evening we were all surprised when a Tammar Wallaby came bouncing past the hotel! It turns out these incredible creatures have adapted to be able to consume salt water!
Friday 26th
Morning came with a glassy ocean. It had been a good decision to stay there the night, and tackle the rest of the exposed coastline in much calmer conditions.
As we paddled past the cliffs, 2-3m swells calmly rolled under us.
After visiting the Sea lions at Hopkins Island for morning tea, we discussed with the students how the return crossing of Thorny Passage could be tackled, with an increasing flooding tide.
The crossing this time did not display any of the terror it is known for as we paddled into Memory Cove.
Memory Cove, named by Flinders during his search efforts for his lost crew. On the beach they discovered the footprints of the sailors as they had searched for water.
He had a bronze plaque created commemorating their lives. Written on it stating the boat was found but the crew was lost.
Everyone was in high spirits with the sun out on the pristine waters of Memory cove. The most dangerous part of the trip now behind us.
To our knowledge, we had been only the 4th group to circumnavigate Thistle in a kayak since the first in the 70’s.
I found myself trying to absorb and take in as many moments as I could. From the sound of the water, the pristine beaches, incredible cliff lines and the shear remoteness.
Paddling with a group again was really enjoyable, and I felt as though we could have re-stocked and set off again for another week and I wouldn’t be sick of it in the slightest.
Life out there is simple.
Memory Cove
Saturday 27th
We ambled our way back to Taylors Landing, soaking in the scenery and playing in the rock gardens in no rush at all. At its end we congratulated each other on an amazing trip. I’m sure it was a trip the 10 of us will remember for a long time. 
Leaving Memory Cove
To wrap up the trip, it was off to the Tumby pub for mandatory celebrations. In addition to the successful paddle, Malcolm’s celebrating a birthday on the 29th of Oct. Congratulations mate.
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